During 2016 I didn’t achieve nearly as much on the boat as I originally envisioned. Nevertheless, I did finish the new beams for the cabin floor. I replaced three of the old beams using laminated Meranti and thickened epoxy. To add further strength I glassed over all the beams. To finish the bilge, Michelle and I painted three coats of Danboline for a nice white finish.
The cabin floor itself was cut from Okume marine ply, all I have to do now is cut the floor hatches and make the covers. I think I will paint the floor white using Danboline and varnish the hatch covers.
Once I have completed the cabin floor I can start on other projects which include painting some of the interior, making new cushions for the berths and rewiring the DC panel. To all my followers, thanks for the support! I hope to write a lot more this year!
People always ask me what my deadlines are or when I will do some specific task. Sometimes I try to give them a firm date, but it almost never turns out the way I suggested. This can result in a lot of anger and worse disappointment.
Resultantly, I have become ambiguous…
Now, when people ask me when I will do something I tell them soon. When is soon? Soon is whenever I feel like it.
This philosophy, I feel, is very important for the mental well being of any sailor. Our lives are not dominated by arbitrary time schedules, but rather by our own internal clocks and the rhythm of nature.
This is not only appropriate talk when discussing sailing, it is also relevant when refitting or building a boat. Yes! Time is important as you don’t want to sit at the dock for too long, but you also don’t want to miss out on some good sailing when you can.
All my restoration projects may, therefore, take some time. But, bare with me because all good things to come to an end.
After 4-5 hours we finished roughly 50% of the sanding needed. I am still debating whether I should remove and replace the cross-beams supporting the cabin floor. However, first thing first – more sanding.
Below are some photographs after today’s debauchery.
Yesterday I started removing the old cabin floor which started to disintegrate. I could not find any prominent rot so I concluded that the plywood simply could not survive the strain of constant wear and tear. This is because the underlying structure did not adequately support the cabin floor.
Above: The old cabin floor, looking into the bilge.
Below: The bilge after the cabin floor was removed. Note all the dust and gunk that accumulated below the floor.
Below: Some plywood that was removed. The large piece is from the starboard bunk and is still in good condition.
Below: The old engine bay, with the position of the old engine mountings still visible.
I hope to sand the bilge and floor this week after which I will give it 2 to 3 coats of hard-wearing enamel paint. Additionally I plan to build up the supporting structure with plywood and epoxy after which I will install 18mm marine ply for the new cabin floor.
After two months I got the outboard bracket back from the Stainless guys. The initial design of the bracket had two mayor flaws: the first was the thickness of the bolts used to attach the bracket to the transom and the second the ability (or lack there of) to keep the outboard set at different heights. The outboard is mounted on a sliding mechanism which was held up by a line fixed to the stern rail. Not only was this highly inefficient and difficult to work with, it was also dangerous.
I therefore had the old bolts replaced with 12mm stainless bolts and had holes laser-cut so that I can adjust the height of the outboard by inserting a “key” in the new holes. I have had some time to experiment with this and it seems to work much better than before.
I have decided to have a new stern rail build since the old one looks a bit rough around the edges (pun intended). I really like the current design where there is a seat incorporated for one to sit on when operating the outboard motor. From this seat I can easily adjust speed or kill the motor while steering the tiller with my feet. The only down side, however, is the poor level of workmanship that went into the construction.
Below is a photograph (taken during the initial survey in April) of the current stern rail.
Using Google SketchUp and some measurements I took this morning in 35knots of wind I came up with this design.
This is only my first draft and all measurements are still to be finalised. Hopefully I will have quotes for the new stern rail by the end of this week. I am also busy with a refit of the outboard bracket which I want to get installed as soon as possible so that I can go sailing again. I will definitely write a post on that as well in the near future.
I have been planning on varnishing the companionway and washboards for weeks. However it seems that I won’t get a decent enough weather window since cold fronts keep rolling in and the temperature stays in the 12 – 16 degrees Celsius range.
The varnish I bought needs at least 25 degrees Celsius and at least four coats applied over two or three days.
I therefore decided to apply raw lin seed oil instead and I must say I am very pleased.
Apologies for the bad light, the sun was setting just as I was taking the picture.
This morning I woke up before dawn and downloaded the synoptic chart while drinking my coffee. Currently there is a high pressure system over Cape Town, which (in Winter) normally means south easterly winds of about 10 – 15 knots.
I did some work and left the house around 10:30 for Gordon’s Bay. The boat is moored about 30min’s drive from where I live and as I was driving I was glad to see that the south easterly wind predicted seems almost non-existent. Nonetheless, they say the wind is made in Gordon’s Bay and as I was driving over the mountains I could see the wind blowing hard over False Bay.
The harbour is well exposed to the wind and I measured 30knts on the anemometer. I considered going back home, however I was determined to continue to sand the companion way and washboards. I don’t think anyone has ever sanded these as they were in a horrible state. I am convinced that the varnish I removed was the original as applied by Jeremy Rogers. To date I have spend more than 20 hours sanding to get the varnish off in all the places where the weather couldn’t get to it. I believe I am now 95% done, but I have said that before…
I started sanding with a very coarse 80 grit paper to get the most of the varnish off, followed by 100 grit. I will finish it of with either 120 or 180 grit before I apply the new varnish. I bought International’s Perfection Plus varnish for this job. It is rather expensive, but I would like it to last as long as possible. It seems straight forward enough to apply, but the instructions are not as encouraging. I will let you know how it works out.
I want to mention some of the problems I have encountered on board. Most of these could have been avoided by proper maintenance and thoughtful installation and repair.
From the photo below it can be seen that the standing rigging (shrouds and stays) are connected to the chain-plates with one to three inter-linked shackles. The shackles puts the structural integrity of the rigging in question, and could compromise safety.
I suspect that one of the previous owners bought the rigging second-hand, and they are from a boat with a shorter mast. It is fortunately not such a big problem as I would have liked to replace the rigging at some stage anyway.
The next problem is some leakage that I have noticed between the hull and the deck joint. As the joint is supported by a wooden beam I am concerned that rot might occur, if not already present. The only possible cause for the leakage I have found thus far originates from the toe-rail attachment. I believe the toe-rail was replaced added as it is Maranti and not Teak. The toe-rail screws were inserted without care and damaged the fiberglass severely. Below is some photos showing the position of the screws which were used to secure the toe-rail.
Some of these holes are fairly deep, however I haven’t been able to measure the exact depth. I further suspect this might be the cause of the leak because the position of the leaks inside the cabin (below) seems to correlate with the position of the screw holes.
I hope to find some time to fix these as soon as possible so that I can move on to even bigger and more exciting projects such as painting the hull/deck and renaming the boat.